Here’s a 11 tips..
– Aim directly at the incoming waves.
– Gain speed in forward or surf stance using short strokes similar to a race start.
– As the wave approaches – if in forward stance – put one foot back to raise the nose out of the water a bit. Make sure both feet are on each side of the center line. Both on the center line will be unstable.
– When the wave hits your nose, squat down – but keep paddling.
– When the wave crests or breaks under you board – keep paddling. Here, many stop paddling mistaken, thinking they’re over the wave. On big powerful waves, if you stop paddling here – they’ll kick you backwards, and you’ll have to start over. Keep the speed, don’t stop paddling til you’re 100% over the wave. Keep paddling on the other side to be ready for the next one.
– One tip here is to push a rail down on one side of the board to angle board over the wave crest. This allows the board to cut through the wave and releases wave energy on the upside of the board, especially if you have a round nose board. Pointed nosed or displacement boards slice through waves easier.
– If there’s more waves coming – keep paddling for the next one.
Watch my video of paddling over several waves.
– Don’t paddle out directly behind another surfer. If they get kicked backwards, they’ll crash into you.
– Don’t paddle out where others are surfing in. Use the sides of the surf area to paddle out.
– Always use a leash. If you fall or get kicked back, your board will take off and possibly collide with others behind you (loose ski effect).
– If you’re a beginner in the surf, find your own wave away from experienced surfers. Unless you can turn with pinpoint precision out or down a face, keep your distance.